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When compiling a ranking of London’s top dining spots, one might foresee well-known high-end venues. But, situated near the top among these food titans is a unpretentious salonu found in a far-flung part of northern London.

A Surprise Accolade

This compact Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. The accolade has left the family completely surprised.

“I am completely shocked,” states a proprietor, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their small place earning such a high spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

The compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after food hotspot, has kept much of its former feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” comments the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the food, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in gradually. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Rising Above the Stars

Interestingly, this modest spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost many times that figure.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to show what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Dedication

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel very happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate outside its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this gastronomic achievement.